Saturday, December 12, 2009

Not-Too-Bad Soup - a Recipe, of Sorts

I am a pretty good cook, not to toot my own horn, or anything. I think I became a pretty good cook because I like to experiment with recipes and ingredients. Nothing pleases me more than to go to my cupboard, a'la Mother Hubbard, and try to fix something edible from what I find there. I grew up cutting my culinary teeth, so to speak, in the gumbo pot of cooking that is New Orleans, where home cooks are famous for not measuring ingredients (except for baking, which is different from cooking), but just throwing stuff in a kettle and adding a pinch of this or a dollop of that, and sometimes using their cupped palms to measure things. I learned to be fearless in my cooking experimentations. This worked out very well, usually. (My family would be only too eager to regale you with horror stories of my "mishaps," given the chance, however.)
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In the previous post, I mentioned that I had intended to blog about making tomato soup, inspired by Plutarch's recipe. I didn't have exactly the list of ingredients that Joe used, but the soup I made was tasty and nourishing. I used canned (tinned) tomatoes, boxed chicken broth, garlic and pepper. I didn't have any cardamom on hand, but I did have a jar of a very good pesto in the refrigerator, so I used a healthy dollop of that. The basil in the pesto was a beautiful complement to the tomatoes, with the pine nuts adding an unusual, but delightful, uh...je nais se quoi in both aroma and flavor. (Yes, I had to Google the French. I can say it, but I didn't know how to spell it. Hope I picked the correct spelling.)
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Today I went grocery shopping. My food budget is extremely low, so I was looking for inexpensive things to use for my supper tonight. It's soup weather here in south-central Pennsylvania; rather cold out. (As my dear old daddy used to say, "It's colder than a well-digger's butt in Idaho out there!")
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One of my favorite soups is a bean and sausage concoction I learned to make from watching one of the cooking shows on television. It calls for chicken broth, white beans, Italian-style fresh sausage, spinach or rabe, onions, garlic, diced tomatoes and oregano. I was on the prowl for sausage and the rabe. Couldn't afford either of them, but I found some dandelion greens and half a butternut squash as inexpensive substitutes. I've never used dandelion greens in anything but salad or mixed with other greens in a "mess o' greens," so this was going to be one of those 'mad-scientist-in-the-la-BOR-atory' cooking sessions. (Try to imagine you hear Boris Karloff saying that - sounds so much better in my head than when I say it aloud.)
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Back to tonight's repast. I think one of the reasons the dandelion greens were so cheap (32-cents for about a pound of them) is because the grocer figures you're going to have to spend an hour washing all the sand from the leaves, so he dare not charge more for them. I mean, nothing is worth that much effort, and I wouldn't have bothered, except I wasn't going to throw away thirty-two cents! I could have bought a stale cookie from the bakery for that thirty-two cents, for heaven's sake, so I was going to wash those leaves if it took all afternoon to get them clean.
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The squash had been peeled in the grocery, so all I had to do was cut it into chunks. Ever try cutting a butternut with a paring knife? Doesn't work too well. I speared it with the fork I use for lifting the turkey onto a platter, then went in search of my kitchen-grade chainsaw. Of course, I kidding. No one has invented one of those chainsaws yet.
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Once I had the greens, squash, onion, garlic and broth simmering, I rummaged through the spice rack for things to dress up the soup. I used thyme, cumin (yeah, I know - odd pot-fellows, aren't they?), black pepper and the slightest pinch of salt. Then my eyes befell the bottle of chipotle chile (that's how it is spelled on the label, so blame McCormick) on the shelf with all my other peppers. Chipotle is a stealthy assassin, in that it doesn't take much of it to set your mouth afire, but I do love its smokey-sweet, almost bitter, taste. Reminds me of burnt sugar, the odor that used to waft upriver from the sugar refinery near our house in Chalmette, Louisiana.
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I pulled what I thought was a small pinch from the bottle and dropped it into the simmering broth. Immediately, the heat released by the broth climbed out of the pot on the back of the steam and torched my nose hairs. I made the mistake of rubbing my nose with the same hand that owned the pepper-laden fingers, used to extract the deadly pinch. Well, duh, Martha! Aren't you glad you weren't scratching your tender bits with that hand?
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I tasted the broth and was surprised at the level of heat from so small a pinch. Yet, it was good. I let the soup simmer for several more minutes and tasted it again. The chipotle dominated the pot, which is not what makes a good soup. My lips were hot from tasting the liquid, almost painful. I had read somewhere that sugar tames the heat in chili peppers, so I added about half a teaspoonful to the soup, let it simmer a couple of minutes, then tasted it again. That worked, or else the heat had already dissipated on its own.
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When the squash was about half tender, I added the beans and diced tomatoes. Because the soup was thin, I added a potato, diced small, thinking it would soften to mush and help thicken the broth. Now my soup was becoming a vegetable stew, and it was becoming more complex in flavor. The cumin needed something to balance it, so I added a couple of tablespoons of green mole to two cups of the stew and pulsed all in the food processor until a smooth paste formed, which was added to the pot. A few minutes more and soup was on. I ended up with a couple of gallons of yummy experimental stuff, creamy without adding cream or roux, very low salt (my blood-pressure likes that), and a new flavor combination that I like very much.
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Wish I had written down exactly what the heck I did!
(c) 2009 Martha McLemore

10 comments:

Harlequin said...

the story of this stew is as tasty as the stew itself ( if the visual and the description are any indication !! )
looks and sounds yummy and your lively story telling adds just the right spice...

ArtSparker said...

Grea adventure, what soup-making is for. Tom Waits has also referenced the posteriors of well-diggers, in a song.

Steve said...

Beans and sausages, broths... all so comforting. Perfect for this time of year and perfect for how I'm feeling right now.

Roderick Robinson said...

Juhn'say kwa, but it's just garnish and you're better off with well-digger's butt which may well form the basis of another type of soup. Reading your post was a labour of pure love because I can't be living with squash or any of its siblings extending all the way up to pumpkins. But I enjoyed the life-affirmation and I was astonished that anything at all (including that famous bucketful of pure spit) is available at 32 cents a pound in the good ol' USA. Just reading a Barbara Tuchman account of how Britain lost that particular colony and, you know what?, it's left me in two minds.

The Crow said...

Art Sparker: That's one of the things I like most about making soup, especially if it's one of those made up on the spot recipes. Truly is an adventure. And fun.

:)

The Crow said...

Dear Steve, I wish I were there to make soup for you and your family. Soup is a great comfort food. It wraps you in its steam like being wrapped in Mother's arms when we were little kids. Soup helps the heart mend, maybe by magic, maybe not, but it does comfort mightily.

I will think of you again today when I reheat the leftovers for my lunch. Hugs to you, friend.

:)

The Crow said...

BB:
I cannot let myself consider what kind of soup would go with, be made of, have anything to do with cold welldigger's butt. Although, a good soup would certaily warm him up, from inside out.

There isn't much one can find to eat in the markets for 32-cents, as you say, but one can still find good eats on the cheap if one knows where to look. The one thing I find most discouraging is that I can no longer ask the butcher for free soup bones. Some marketing genius decided the groceries and butcher shops were giving away profits with those bones, so now we must pay for them. A travesty, especially in hard times.

Why can't you have squashes? Are you allergic to them, or is it they don't grow in England?

Okay, now you are going to have to blog about Tuchman's book and the two minds you have regarding America's independence from Mother England.

:)

The Crow said...

Harlequin! How did I miss seeing your comment when it arrived?

The soup-stew did turn out well. I never know what to expect when making up a recipe on the fly, though I have taste-memories for all the ingredients and can imagine how they might go together.

My camera is broken, so the picture at the top of the post is not mine. I borrowed it from another site, which is linked just below it.

Thank you for your compliment.

:)

Unknown said...

I love the way that soup evolved, tasting better and better as you progressed. How good it looks too. Food photographers take hours dressing up simple food to make it look appetizing. You, it see,ms didn't need to.

The Crow said...

Hello, Joe:

I wish I could take credit for the photo. My camera is broken, so I had to search Google for an image to use. The one above is from The Food Network, from a recipe by Emeril Lagasse. The link below the picture takes you out to their site. My soup looks more like a bisque than the clear-brothed soup above.

Funny I am responding to you right now, because I reheated some of the soup for lunch. It is better today than it was yesterday, because (as you know, being a good cook yourself) the flavors have mingled and married and have produced even more interesting taste-offspring.

Soup is an evolution, isn't it? I found some pieces of turkey, leftover from Thanksgiving, when I cleaned out the refrigerator this morning. They are now simmering in a pot of broth, with a stalk of celery, half an onion, some thyme and tarragon, black pepper and garlic. More delicious-smelling fodder for soup later this week. Life is good.

See what you started with your recipe?

:)